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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the family completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.